Somewhat sidelined thanks to the presence of Glenrothes and Glen Grant (not to mention Speyburn) in the same village, Glen Spey gets on with producing fillings for numerous Diageo blends. As a result, it’s rarely seen as a single malt, with even independent bottelings pretty thin on the ground. This 21 year old is the color of old gold, and while the nose initially surprises with a hint of suet dumplings, there’s a rich sweetness which is strangely hard to pin down. -reviewed by John Hansell-